The far eastern side of northern Portugal, formally known as Beira Alta, is one of the most fascinating regions of the country while also being one of the most undiscovered.

Situated beyond the vineyards of the Douro Valley and north of the colossal Serra da Estrela granite massif, Beira Alta comprises rolling countryside, ancient castles, and charming hilltop towns.

The region lies along the Spanish border, and historically it was heavily defended. Remnants of this past are seen in almost every town with a fortification or castle at its center.

Historically, Beira Alta played a crucial role in Portugal's defence. The region is dotted with ancient castles and fortified towns, many dating back to the Portugal’s founding (12th century) and the Reconquista period (1640–1668). These formidable structures, include the walled town of Trancoso, the star-shaped fortress of Almeida and the picturesque ruins at Castelo Rodrigo.

Despite its many attractions, Beira Alta remains relatively undiscovered by mass tourism. This off-the-beaten-path quality allows visitors to experience an authentic slice of Portuguese life, where time seems to move at a slower pace and traditions are still very much alive.

This is one of Portugal’s least visited regions, but has so much to offer an intrepid visitor.

Trancoso – A delightful medieval town encircled by ancient walls

Almeida – A town with more fortifications than houses, constructed around a star shape layout

Castelo Rodrigo – Picturesque hilltop village with castle ruins

Castelo de Marialva – A once-mighty castle on a high vantage point

Linhares – Charming granite village in the foothills of the Serra da Estrela mountains

Note: While exploring north-eastern Portugal you must definitely include Monsanto, the Serra da Estrela mountains and the city of Viseu, but these are not covered by this article.
Related articles: Monsanto - The Serra da Estrela

There is actually a lot to see within the eastern side of the Alto Beira region, and could easily fill a trip of six days. A suggested itinerary could include
Day 1 – Trancoso, Marialva and Penedono (optional)
Day 2 – Almeida, Castelo Rodrigo and Pinhel (optional)
Day 3 – Linhares and Guarda (or a drive through the Serra da Estrela mountains following the N339)
Day 4 – Viseu
Day 5 – Vila Nova de Foz Côa and Upper Douro (Pocinho)
Day 6 – Monsanto (a long drive but worth the effort)

Each of the days will see something very different, and misses out the many mediocre stone castles of the region
Note: To get the most from the Beira region you will need a car as there is almost no public transport.
The interactive map below shows each of these day trips. (Note: Zoom in/out to see all of the markers)

Legend: 1) Day 1 2) day 2 3) day 3 4) Day 4 5) day 5

There are many towns and optional of locations to be based for a trip to the Alto Beira.

Viseu is a likeable city, which has the largest selection of hotels, restaurants and shops, but it may be too far to the west, and will significantly increase the amount of driving you will need to do.

Trancoso is a pleasant small town and is a good choice of base for a holiday to the region. There are good road connections (the fast IP2 and east-west A25) and within the town is a decent selection of restaurants and shops.

Guarda could be an option, and has a pretty centre, but most of the town has been taken over by spawning apartment blocks and is not as scenic as Viseu or Trancoso.

Almeida is nice for a nights stop but too far east for an entire trip. Pinhel has a (small) pretty historic centre around the castle but the N221 going north is slow. T

The town of Vila Nova de Foz Côa is characterless, and its only a 35-minute drive from Trancoso.

Trancoso is a delightful medieval town, recognised as one of Portugal's 12 Historic Villages (Aldeias Históricas de Portugal). Its historic centre has barely altered since its heyday in the 13th century and offers a vivid glimpse into Portugal's medieval past. King Dinis married here in 1288 and presented the town as a dowry to his 12-year-old bride, cementing Trancoso's place in royal history.

As with many hills in Beira, a mighty stone castle was constructed on the summit of Trancoso's hill. The Castelo de Trancoso is one of the largest and best-preserved medieval castles of the region, boasting 15 towers and two gates. One of these, the Porta d'El Rei, is steeped in legend, associated with the tale of Saint Barbara.

The Praça Dom Dinis with the town’s Pillory in front of the Igreja de São Pedro church

At the heart of the town lies the pretty Praça Dom Dinis plaza, while ancient walls encircle the historic quarter. These fortifications bear witness to Trancoso's strategic importance and its role as a significant commercial center in the Middle Ages. The town hosted large fairs that attracted merchants from various regions, contributing to its prosperity and cultural diversity.

Trancoso's medieval Jewish heritage is evident in its well-preserved Jewish quarter and a former synagogue, testimony to the significant Jewish population that once thrived here.

This characterful town takes around 2-3 hours to explore thoroughly and offers visitors a journey through history with its well-preserved architecture and storied past. Trancoso is also an excellent base for further exploration of the Beira region, with excellent roads in the surrounding area.

It is possible to walk around the town walls of Trancoso

Rising up from the surrounding plains, at an elevation of about 820 meters, is the picturesque Castelo Rodrigo. This important strategic setting was bitterly contested between Portugal and the Kingdom of León until it came under Portugal's control by the signing of the Treaty of Alcanizes in 1297. Today, it's classified as one of Portugal's "Historical Villages" (Aldeias Históricas de Portugal), a testament to its rich past and cultural significance.

The village is surrounded by a double line of medieval walls, a reminder of its former military importance. Much of the castle and the adjoining palace (Palácio de Cristóvão de Moura) is in ruin, being destroyed by the villagers in 1640. During Portugal's annexation under Spanish rule, a pro-Castile leader (Cristóvão de Moura) was installed to govern the region. So hated was Cristóvão, that on Portugal's independence, an angry mob of villages ransacked and destroyed his palace – even though Cristóvão had died 27 years earlier!

Medieval stone houses line the cobbled streets of Castelo Rodrigo

Castelo Rodrigo boasts a fascinating Jewish heritage. During the Middle Ages, there was a significant Jewish community in the village. Even today, some buildings still bear marks of this heritage, including houses with crosses carved on the door lintels, silent witnesses to the area's complex religious history.

Despite its historical importance, Castelo Rodrigo is now home to a very small permanent population, often cited as less than 100 inhabitants. This small population contributes to the village's serene and timeless atmosphere.

From its elevated position, Castelo Rodrigo offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, including parts of Spain.

Castelo Rodrigo is a delightful place which you will want to include in your tour of Beira. The castle ruins are the main attraction, while surrounding it are pretty cobbled streets and traditional stone buildings. Castelo Rodrigo is tiny, and can be seen in less than 1-hour, but you will want to visit to immerse yourself in its rich history and stunning views.

It is possible to walk around the town walls of Trancoso

Almeida is the most impressive, fortified town in the Beira region. Its distinctive 12-pointed star-shaped defences exemplify military engineering, which can be fully appreciated when viewed from above (or with a satellite map image)

Almeida encapsulates centuries of Portuguese history within its walls. The well-preserved 17th-century fortifications allow walks along their length, offering views that span generations of conflict and peace. Six monumental gates punctuate these walls, each bearing witness to past sieges and defensive strategies.

Endless moats, ditches and walls surround the Almeida

At the centre of Almeida are the remains of its medieval castle. This once formidable structure came to a dramatic end in 1810, during the Peninsular War, when its magazine exploded. The resulting ruins are a stark reminder of the town's turbulent past.

The town's narrow streets are lined with well-preserved military buildings, traditional houses and historic squares. The Military History Museum, housed in the former artillery barracks, contains exhibits detailing Almeida's strategic importance and the conflicts that shaped its development.

Almeida's double line of fortifications, complete with moats, ravelins and counter-guards, presents a comprehensive study of historical defence strategies. These architectural elements underline the town's important role in military history.

There is a pretty town to discover once through all of the defences